Face cream



Patented Dec. fj

v "rscecaas r New York-N. Y, and

Duran, sum r. a 'nhn, r.,-;weehd ii i, n. J.

' No Drawing.

W011 m a, 1m,

ice-in No. 021,512.

' cleansing eliect and a mild astringent action, and

whichwill alsostimulate theskinso astogive it a glow and good color andincrease its tone.

The ferments and other biological constituents v of buttermilk appear'tohave other very impor-' tant and useful efi'ects. The proteinconstituents or buttermilk m very soft curds which not only 2aidinmakingasmoothcreamy product, butalso improve the results obtainedby the cream. While the precisereasons tor the superior results obtainedby the use of buttermilk .are not known, it is believed that one reasonis that some of its constituents part of emulsifiers :tor grease anddirton theskinorinthe pores ofthe same. Ordinarily, cleansing compounds;suchas soap, are slightly alkaline in reaction and act as emulsifiersfor grease and dirt partly on account otthe salts ot'theffattylacids andpartly on 25 account oi the saponifylng chest ,of any free also thealkali produced by' hydrolysis of such fatty acid salts, on the grease'to beQremoved. Where,a'sinthep tcase,theprodnot is acid in reaction,salts fatty acids will 30 be decomposed, and as there is no tree alkali,or

alkali by hydrolysis, there can be no saponification.

butter fat in'the original milk was emulsified. In the churningoperation, the envelope or such emulsifier around each i'at globule isbroken and remains behind in the buttermilk. Apparently, such emulsifieris capable of acting again as such in connection with the grease o'rdirt on the skin.

The bulk of the milk both albumen and casein, also appear to haveasimilar, though less marked, emulsifying and hence cleansing action.

Buttermilk contains only about 7.5% "solids. It is .i'or our P p se toodilute and should be 45 concentrated before with the other inmedients.Usually, this concentration involves boiling down the buttermilk invacuum pans about 3% or 4 to 11 Such concentration gives a :productwhich is fluid whenwarm'but semi-solid when cold. Another method ofconcentration involves allowing the milk to whey ofl, draining off thewhey and, ii desired, evaporating'oii a part of the water from theremaining curds.v

-The lactic acid is formed lay-bacterial action on the lactose or milksugar. and this action ceases automatically. when the lactic acidcontent is around 1%. 'Iibuttermilk containing 1% oilactic acid isconcentrated 1 m4, the final producnwill contain 4% lactic acid. Thefinished cream 7 should not o w i: contain over 2% oijiactic C v w 1Buttermilk contains the material by which the acid, or over 3% at most,and, hence, in spite of .the diluting effect of the petrolatum and otheringredients, it'is usually 11 to neutralize a part0! the acid in thecondensed buttermilk.

It the protein contents of buttermilk are con'-. I

centrated, in part, at least, by wheying on, then it maybe necessary toadd lactic acid to the mix- I ture to compensate for the lactic acidremoved with the whey. The usual limits ior lactic acid in the finalpreparation are from 1 to 2%, with 1.5 the most universally suitablepercentage. Results can be obtained-with lactic acid as'low as 0.5, and,insome cases, the lactic acid may run as high as 3%. It willbeunderstood in this con-' nection that lactic acid meansireelactic-,acid, and the percentages do not include other acidsforiginally present in the milk diadded to the preparation forpreservative or other purposes, such as borlc acid.

Concentrations of l to 2% of lactic acid aregonot suillcient to make theproduct-keep, and, hence,it is desirable to add a preservative, such as.LO'to 1.5% of sodium benzoate or an equiva!- lent amount of boric acid.

The beneficial action of the lactic acid and, to a lesser extent, thatof the other ingredients, is aided by incorporating into the cream askin penetrant .or a fatty'or unctuous mate ntaining such substance,such as lanolin, the hier active constituent of which is the skin penctrant cholesterol.

Emulsified with the other ingr d nts is a considerable percentage of asuitable unguent, such as petrolatum, either. solid or liquid. Perfumemay be added when and as desired. other inas gredients may be added forspecial purposes, such as tincture of benzoin to increase the astringentoi buttermilk,'condensed4 to 1, the balance con- 40 sisting chiefly oiskin penetrant and ctuous material. More usually, the percentage ofbuttermilk is between '45 and 65%, a very suitable proportion being 55%.

Assuming the condensed buttermilk contains 4% lactic acid, thepercentage of lactic acid in the final cream without neutralizationwouldy range from 1.2% for the 30% buttermilk product to 3.6% 101' the90% buttermilk product. For the former, no neutralizing agent isrequired. For the latter, sumcient neutralizing agent, such as sodiumcarbonate, is added to lower the lactic acid content to, say, 1.5%. Ifbuttermilk containing 1% of lacticacid is allowed to whey off, reducedin volume 50% by drawing ofi whey, and thenthe curdy portionconcentrated 2 to 1, the final preparation, without adding lactic acidor neutralizing agent, would range from 0.6% ,to 1.8% lactic acid.

Hence, for most proportionswithin the 30 $0.

saw

AT T? oFFlcaf F Q 90%range, lactic acid would have to be added.

milk should be heated to a suiliciently high temperature to precipitatethe albumen. However, milk contains ,ierments which are killed by pro-'lor'ig'd heating to temperatures as high as 170" F.; so that, topreserve such ierments', the milk should be subjected to temperaturesaround 170 F. only long enough to precipitate the albumen.

The well known flash pasteurization treatment fulfills these conditionsadmirably.

Temperatures around 140 F., even when continued for a relatively longperiod of time, do not kill the ferments, and for this, as well as otherreasons, such as avoiding hardening of the protein constituents, themilk is desirably concentrated in vacuo at a temperature around 140 F.The relative proportion of material containing a skin penetrant, such aslanolin, tounguent, such as petrolatum, may vary 'widely, one suitableproportion being 5:3. A very satisfactory formula to use is the following:

a Percent Buttermilk condensed 4 to 1 with 4% lactic acid Lanolin 2'7Liquid petrolatum 16,5 Sodium carbonate 0.3 Sodium benzoate 1.2

,emulsio'n.

The ingredients are thoroughly mixed and emulsified by anysultableapparatus, ii desirable, with the aid of heat. The water in thecondensed buttermilk is suflicient to enable the solids to be emulsifiedinto the form of a thick semi-solid 5 The proportion of condensedbuttermilk in the finished preparation depends largely on the nature ofthe skin to be treated. With dry skins, a low percentage 01 buttermilkand a correspond- 1 ingly high percentage of unguent gives the bestresults.- With ofly skins, the relative proportions should be reversed.

What is claimed is:

1. A face cream, consisting chiefly of con- 15 densed buttermilk havingits protein content in substantially unhardened iorm andunctuousmaterial emulsified with the water of the condensed buttermilk.

2. A face cream, comprising 30 to percent 20 of, condensed buttermilkhaving. its protein content in substantially unhardened form, freelactic acid between 0.5 and 3 percent, the balance of the product beingcomposed chiefly of unctuous material, and having the insolubleconstituents of 25 the cream emulsified with the water in thebuttermilk.

3. A face cream, comprising 30 to 90 percent of condensedbuttermilk-having its protein content in substantiallyunhardened form,free lactic acid between 0.5 and 3 percent, the balance of the productbeing composed chiefly of skin penetrant and unctuous material, andhaving the insoluble constituents of the cream emulsified 35 with thewater in the buttermilk.

BARNEY J1 DRYFUSS. EUGENE 1". AUBRY, JR.

